In working with thin, transparent fabrics, such as delicate chiffon, the choice of how to process open sections plays an important role. Indeed, the quality and type of the finished product will depend on this choice.
On the pages of our site we have repeatedly talked about different ways of working with a slanting inlay. And this is not surprising, because the oblique inlay is used quite often in sewing, as a processing of open sections, allowances of products, and also as a decorative element.
How to sew an oblique edging: 3 ways
The difficulty in working with oblique silk chiffon caps is that they are difficult to stabilize in width.
Oblique beiks are cut obliquely at an angle of 45 °. Cotton and linen bales are more stable and do not change their width even after the WTO, especially ready-made ones bought at a sewing store. But with slanting trims from thin fabrics, especially from silk chiffon, a completely different story.
The silk inlay cut along an oblique after the WTO changes in width, and, in different areas, the difference can vary from -1 to -3 cm from the original width.
Therefore, remember one simple rule, beiki from thin and delicate fabrics are always cut out with a width greater than necessary (at least 2-3 cm).
For example, if you need a slanting inlay made of silk chiffon in a finished form 3 cm wide, then you need to cut out an inlay 5-7 cm wide!
In one of my workshops, I showed how to cut oblique beiks from thin fabrics:
How to cut a slanting inlay from a thin fabric
If, after you stabilize and base the bakes in width, they still "float", I will show how you can deal with this problem.
Step 1
Take a slanting inlay to the cut
and stitch.
Step 2
Press the trim up.
Step 3
Round the machined allowance / cut with an inlay.
Take it.
Step 4
Then carefully cut off the protruding stock allowance exactly to the stitching line.
Step 5
Unscrew the tape and the seam allowance.
Schedule.
Iron.
Scribble to the edge.
Remove the mark and iron.
Done!
How to make a slanting trim with the help of a tailor's pin
The author of the master class and photo: Julia Dekanova
