Share
Pin
Tweet
Send
Share
Send
Daria Privalikhina - a young designer, semi-finalist of the Moscow Fashion Start 2015 Design Competition, told us about her collection and shared the secrets of creating designer clothes.
![](http://img.ballardsicecream.com/img/burd-2020/4957/master-klass-otdizajnera-dari-privalihinoj.jpg)
The collection includes dresses, jackets, coats, overalls. The models are based on a straight silhouette, but the main feature of these products lies in the reliefs. Somewhere they emphasize the figure, and somewhere they tell about some story of a woman.
![](http://img.ballardsicecream.com/img/burd-2020/4957/master-klass-otdizajnera-dari-privalihinoj-2.jpg)
The interweaving of forms, intricacies - this is the main idea of the collection. Reliefs breathe new life into a dress and make you see its owner in a new way. The designer uses an unusual combination of fabrics; faux leather and linen, mixed fabric and suede, coat.
![](http://img.ballardsicecream.com/img/burd-2020/4957/master-klass-otdizajnera-dari-privalihinoj-3.jpg)
The color scheme is restrained, black color prevails, but there is also dark green, gold, burgundy, scarlet.
How is a model created?
![](http://img.ballardsicecream.com/img/burd-2020/4957/master-klass-otdizajnera-dari-privalihinoj-4.jpg)
Daria Privalikhina decided to tell how a designer model is created using the example of a basic classic black dress.
Construction
Description of the model: women's dress, sleeveless. Made of faux leather. The silhouette is straight. On the shelf are reliefs creating a geometric ornament. Zipper in the middle seam of the back. Recommended size 42−44.Name of material | Consumption rate | price, rub. | Cost, rub. |
Faux leather, width 1.5 m | 1,5 m | 380 | 570 |
Lining fabric shir 1,5 m | 1,5 m | 225 | 337,5 |
Lightning | 1 PC. | 570 | 570 |
Thread | 1 cat. | 60 | 60 |
The amount of costs for materials: | 1537,5 |
Calculation and construction of sections of the design drawing of a female dress
The absolute values of a particular female figure of size 176−84−90, adopted during the development of the design of the model of the female dress.![](http://img.ballardsicecream.com/img/burd-2020/4957/master-klass-otdizajnera-dari-privalihinoj-5.jpg)
Calculation of the construction of sections of the drawing of a women's dress
Calculation of product width by sections
A0a = Shs + Pshs: 16,5 + 1,0 = 17,5aa2 = dpr + pshpr - armhole: 7.8 + 2.8 = 10.6
A0a1 = Cr3 + Pg: 42,0 + 5,0 = 47,0
a1a2 = Cg + (Cg2 - Cg1) + nsc - shelf: 20.6
Calculation of product sections vertically from point A0
A0G = Vprz + Pspr + 0.5 PDTS - armhole depth level: 21.3 + 2.0+ 0.5 = 23.8A0T = Dts2 + PDTS - waist level: 44.0 + 1.0 = 45.5
TB = 0.5Dts2 - 2, 0 - hips: 0.5 * 44.0 - 2.0 = 20.0
Build the back of the dress
Neck construction
А0А2 = Сш: 3 + Пшг - neck width: 15.5: 3 + 2.0 = 7.1A0A = A0A2: 3 - neck depth: 7.1: 3 = 2.4
AN = Dee: 96,0
TT1: 0
Drawing shoulder lines and armholes
A2P1 = Shp - determination of the end point of the shoulder line: 12.0TP1 = VpkII + Pvpk - determination of the end point of the shoulder line: 43.6 + 1.0 + 1.0 = 45.5
G1G2 = 0.5 G1G4 - middle of the armhole: 11.0 * 0.5 = 5.5
G1P3 = P2G1: 3.0 + 2.0 - the point of contact of the armhole with the vertical from point a: 21.0: 3 + 2.0 = 9.0
G11 = 0.2 Shpr + 0.5 - bisector: 0.2 * 13.4 + 0.5 = 3.3
Build the front of the dress
The construction of the neck of the shelf
T3A3 = DTP + PDTP: 44,4 + 2,0 = 46,4A3A4 = A0A2 - neck width: 7.3
A3A5 + A3A4 + 1 - neck depth: 7.3+ 1.0 = 8.3
Shoulder and armholes
A4A9 = (Cr2 - Cr1) * 2 - 1: (44,4 - 42)*2 - 1 = 4,0A9P5 - shoulder width: 12.0
G4P4 = G1P2 (from the drawing of the back) - 0.5: 21,0 - 0,5 = 20,5
Shelf armhole height
G4P6 = G4P4: 3.0 - the point of contact of the armhole with the vertical from the point a2: 18: 3.0 = 6From P6, as from a center with a radius of P6P4, an arc is drawn, receiving t. P5
G42 = 0.2 Spre - bisector: 0.2 * 10.4 = 2.1
Model features of dress drawing construction
Model features of the dress, see the drawing.![](http://img.ballardsicecream.com/img/burd-2020/4957/master-klass-otdizajnera-dari-privalihinoj-6.jpg)
Specification of patterns and details of the dress cut
Faux leather
Name of parts | The number of patterns | Number of details |
Back | 1 | 2 |
Yoke | 1 | 1 |
Shelf | 1 | 1 |
Lining
Name of parts | The number of patterns | Number of details |
Back | 1 | 2 |
Yoke | 1 | 1 |
Shelf | 1 | 1 |
Gasket
Name of parts | The number of patterns | Number of details |
Yoke | 1 | 1 |
Layout patterns on the fabric
Try to lay out the patterns on the fabric so that interlecal lunges are as small as possible. Allowances of 1.5−2 cm to refine the reliefs.![](http://img.ballardsicecream.com/img/burd-2020/4957/master-klass-otdizajnera-dari-privalihinoj-7.jpg)
We tuck the tuck into the relief of the coquette.
![](http://img.ballardsicecream.com/img/burd-2020/4957/master-klass-otdizajnera-dari-privalihinoj-8.jpg)
We cut out the details of the dress and sweep away. We prepare the dress for fitting.
Preparation of the product for the first fitting
Dress
- iron the details of the cut product;
- lay control threads in the middle of the parts;
- sweep and sweep all parts of the shelf;
- sweep and sweep the back with a shelf at the side seams and shoulder;
- sweep lightning.
The first fitting
Put sour cream on the figure. Try on the right side of the figure.Dress
- evaluate the volume and shape of the product;
- clarify the balance;
- specify the geometric pattern;
- specify the depth and width of the neck and armhole;
- specify the length.
Preparation of the product for the second fitting
Dress
- handle the shelf;
- handle the back;
- to process lateral and shoulder seams;
- process the lining;
- connect the lining to the product;
- sweep the bottom of the product.
The second fitting
Put the product on the figure, fasten the zipper.- clarify the balance and fit of the product on the figure;
- specify the shape of the armhole;
- finally clarify the length of the dress.
Initial processing of main parts
- Wet-heat treatment of the main parts.
- Temporary assembly for fitting.
- Trying on.
- Clarification after trying.
- Processing after trying.
- Processing shelves.
- Back processing.
Assembly (assembly)
- Connection of the shoulder and side seams.
- Processing the bottom of the product.
- Connecting the product to the lining product.
- The final finish.
- Final cleaning and wet-heat treatment.
Processing sequence
Shelf processing
- Sweep and drain the details of the shelf.
- Remove basting threads.
- Iron the seams.
Back processing
- Sweep and grind the middle seam.
- Remove basting threads.
- Iron the seams.
- Sweep and stitch the zipper.
- Iron the clasp.
Joining seams
- Sweep and grind side sections.
- Remove basting threads.
- Iron the seams.
- Sweep and grind shoulder sections.
- Iron the seams.
Applicable equipment: needle, thread, grinding machine, scissors, spreader, iron, ironing table, table.
Lining treatment and joining with the product
- Glue the yoke lining.
- Sweep and stitch the yoke and shelf.
- Remove stitching threads.
- Sweep and grind the shoulder and side seams of the lining.
- Remove the threads of manual work.
- Sweep the lining with the product on the armhole and neck.
- Turn the armhole.
- Grind the neck.
- Remove the threads of manual work.
- Connect the lining to the bottom of the dress.
- Turn out the dress and sweep the neck and armholes.
- Iron the product.
- Remove the threads of manual work.
- Hem the remaining hole in the product.
Final finish
- Clean the product.
- Iron the product.
Dress is done!
Group of Daria Privalikhina vkontakte
Photo: PR
Material prepared by Anna Soboleva
Share
Pin
Tweet
Send
Share
Send